I like this first excerpt, two weeks after I arrived in Brasil, because it captures some of the uncertainty and randomness of moving to another country. I have no idea what I'm doing, but of course it always goes well. Because I lived in frig'n Brasil.
Context: I had my first vacation from the English Academy and I've left my hometown of Joinville. I've taken a bus North to Paranagua, then a train to Morretes. I've discovered a tropical tubing paradise on the Rio Nhundiaquara and had a good float the day before. Now I've got to figure out what the hell to do next.
I will place any necessary clarifications or translations in brackets. I also apologize that I had apparently forgotten how to use the past tense back then.
Slept through my alarm, and the free breakfast. Oops. I decide that I should not stay another night here [actual hotel pictured above] just to have a place to keep my stuff for the day. Instead I arrange to leave my pack here and cram everything I need for hiking in the man purse. At the tourist office a man gives me directions to a certain bus stop using a Hotel Nhundiaquara brochure. I find it easily and await an 11:15 bus to Sao Joao de Graciosa, and entry point to Morumbi State Parque.
At around 12:30 I give up. I don't think this bus runs on Sundays. Disappointed at not being able to do some jungle exploration, I pick up my pack and head to the Rodoviaria [bus station] for a change of plans. Things do not look good for buses. Only two buses a day to Paranagua? Next one at 7 PM? The only other viable option is Guaraquesaba at 4 PM, from which you should be able to hire a boat to Parque Nacional Superagui - a mangrove island thing.
As I ponder the numerous possibilities a bus that says "Paranagua" pulls up and people are boarding. I grab my stuff and get on ... and excellent R$1,25 solution.
Things are not that simple in Paranagua. I stumble in the rain from the bus station down to the waterfront - they have boats there that can take you out to Ilha do Mel [Honey Island]. After some consternation I find a nice gal and two little boys (she takes pains to explain they're not hers) who say their boat leaves at three. Excellent. Ilha do Mel it is.
When the boat comes it's a beautiful 40-50 foot wooden yacht. Me, another guy, and a couple are the only passengers. It's Sunday so the boats are full coming back from the island. The trip is nice ... winding through the mangrove swamps in the bay. On board I meet Aramis, who speaks broken English, and like everybody else in Brasil wants to know if I'm solzinho [alone], and if so, why.
Turns out he's doing a neurosurgery residency in Curitiba ... and in 10 days traveling to Little Rock, AR for a year-long fellowship. We talk about ourselves and the island while we drink a couple beers. He has a house on the island and he'll show me the good spots - or at least a good pousada [guest house] to stay in. When we reach Nova Brasilia ... some shacks and a dock ... the lay out of the island is clear: [refers to hand drawn map]. On the way to his house he suggests that maybe I could stay with him. His "house" turns out to be a compound with his father's, sister's, cousin's and his houses. He stays in his father's while I stay in his nice little house to the side with bedroom and bathroom. This island is great. "Main street" [pictured below] is a trail that winds among trees, swamps, and bars across the width of the island.
We meet his cousin Lucio, two houses down, a 40-year-old travel agent who works in Orlando most of the year. He is funny, honest, and apparently quite a womanizer. You can't help but like the guy, despite his off-color remarks - any guy who tells strangers about his foot fetish in the first couple minutes has some redeeming value, right?
We chat on the porch, mainly about sexual exploits, before heading "across the street" to some friends or relatives of theirs. One of them is completely wasted. He had disappeared for most of the day and came back plowed. He tells me in Portuguese, with help, about how he had millions of dollars until his ex-wife took everything. Now he has one shirt, his business, and the car he stole back. Aramis tells me later the story is true.
Later drunky gives me an unsolicited lesson on how to pick up women, using Aramis as the woman. Brasilians may think of getting laid first, but their second priority is getting you laid too. He does the lesson in "English" - asking his friends for new words to shout now and again: "First! Look! Then! (he struts to his mark) Oh, how are you? Fine. Kissy kissy! Mais Importan-chee! [Very Important] NO FEAR! NO FEAR DE WOMANS! Look! Direct! Swing-swing! (his hips), Tranquilly! Tranquilly!"
He repeats this routine more than 20 times ... honestly ... each time more emphatic than the last. It doesn't help that I goad him on, asking "Tem Medo? [Should I fear them?]" ... "NO! NO FEAR DE WOMAN!"
Finally the actual woman of the house helps him collect his things - he's about to miss the last boat out. Drunky's short friend is also quite a character ... calling to his housekeeper who doesn't understand english: "I want to fuck-fuck with you!" over and over. Weeeee. Let's leave soon.
Finally we do [Aramis, Lucio and I], heading to da Fora beach ... a wonderful place. We climb up to a light house and then back down for dinner. I make a small repayment for their hospitality by picking up the tab. Fish, shrimp, stuffed crabs and all the things that come with it usually, I'm now discovering: potato salad, rice, fries, etc. We return to the compound for showers - and Lucio heads to bed tired and hungover. He was heading back to Curitiba today but now that he has company he's going to stick around.
Aramis and I walk back to the 'hub' of Nova Brasilia - the cluster of bars. Everyone left on the island has chosen one bar, so we do too. A guy is playing the guitar, singing, and doing some harmonica work quite well. All this talk about picking up women ... our intention here is clear.
A tall woman with a bright smile, dark, dark skin and long hair in cornrows sits at a table next to us. She wears a nice white sun dress and what this? She has an attractive friend for Aramis. The expert Aramis starts talking to the short, white friend - Daniella. Immediately my "date" gets up and starts talking to another guy - oh well. We join their table anyway and chat with Daniella - in business administration school in Londrina.
Things move quickly in Brasil. Daniella invites us for a walk on the beach. After a quick conference, Aramis and I determine that since my "date" is already talking to another guy that I should stay rather than be the 5th wheel. Until ... my "date" ... who I have not even met yet ... comes over to me and says let's go. So we're five, I guess. Whatever - my only goal is to treat Aramis and Daniella like a mother grizzly and her cub. Don't want to interfere.
But wait - my new friend "needs help" crossing the various puddles and muddy places. Soon I am escorting her arm in arm. And it's quite a night for love. No moon - all stars. Some meteors, the Southern Cross, Orion, sparkling plankton in the ocean waters ... except for our newly elected 5th wheel. Who is this guy?
We climb back up to the light house for the scenic views, and climb back down the other side to Praia Farol [Lighthouse beach]. I realize that, although we are giving communication our best shot - with my stupid, stupid Portuguese and her propensity for really fast speech, that we haven't really met. Her name is Priscilla. I call her "Queen of the Beach". Yes, she's seen the movie. No, she's not a man.
I establish the following facts: She has an extreme fear of frogs. Less than her fear of snakes, although frogs seem to be her big concern tonight. Her and Daniella met working at McDonald's. I proceed to follow my drunken master's advice. I am tranquilly tranquilly. I go for the kissy-kissy, but get the cheek instead.
Back in Nova Brasilia I find out that our fifth wheel doesn't know any of them at all. He was just following us around in case Aramis or I failed. I love this country. Good to know he'll be there to pick up the pieces. This discovery made some of his questions ("Do you like Priscilla? She's nice, eh?") extra creepy.
The night is over, basically, after some wandering and confusion. As we walk home I ask Aramis how he started talking to Daniella originally. He said he asked "Don't I know you from somewhere?"
Classic.
02-18-01
Aramis and I eat a late breakfast, then wake up Lucio and sit on his porch in the heat. Today we're off to the other end of the island, Encantadas. It's about an hour walk down the length of Praia Grande, and then over a pass where folks are paragliding, and then around some rocks and you're there.
We hang out on the seaward side drinking beer and eating fish fingers. Lucio is a pick-up master. He spots three women (three old women, albeit) and as they pass by he picks them right up. He gets the name of their pousada [guest house] ... see y'all later.
I swim a bit and as the afternoon wears on we head for the caves. They are actually dikes which are much less resistant than the bedrock - the sea has cut them back 50 meters or so. The second one is tough to get to - Lucio and I wade around the corner with the surf pounding the rocks, reflecting, and then ripping the next wave. Half way there it strikes me as quite dangerous - but at least we avoided the famous mermaids or sirens that live here.
Located on the bay side, Encantadas is the other village on the island. We stopped by the retirement home, I mean pousada, of the three ladies, in order to flirt with them and touch them a lot. I am really amused that Aramis, the young neurosurgeon who didn't have much trouble with age-appropriate women last night, is pursuing ladies 30 years his senior. We invite them for a beer in Encantadas - they are suspicious of me. They say I have the face of a detective. Probably because I'm trying to figure what the hell is going on all the time.
Down at the bar Lucio gets impatient and picks up two more ladies to sit with us. We also meet three Aussies on a round-the-world plane ticket originating in London. They are weary of travel and will head home after Carnaval in Rio. Lucio tries to pick up the female Australian too, even though her boyfriend is 10 feet away. Then the three original ladies join us and Lucio is in over his head. We all debate which country is the best in the world - Australia or Brasil. Whatever the outcome, it's definitely not the U.S. I gather.
We also acquire and old salty sea captain who will take us back to Nova Brasilia after he drinks a bit more. Collectively we are quite a gang - but all good times must come to an end. Lucio gets the digits from one of the gals from Curitiba - who says she is not satisfied with her current boyfriend. He also gets the e-mail address of the Australian gal. This guy cannot be stopped.
The ride back to Brasilia in the dark is breath-taking. A large, 180-degree thunderstorm is building up off the coast and lightening illuminates the entire island for brief moments. It is so frequent it appears there is a war nearby. The bioluminescence is also out in force. For a short time we are trapped in the bay - and have to get out and push. The captain of the "Ilha do Sol" puts the prop just below the surface and you can hear the bottom scrape sand. We are eventually able to retrace our steps and cross the right bar. At Brasilia we help him park the boat on the beach with his cart / trailer.
After some showers and a snack the three amigos return downtown - this time to a different bar. We pick up a fourth amigo - a cute, marbled-coat boxer. Lucio is pretty drunk at this point, playing "astronaut" with his flashlight. He repeats "Houston, we have a problem" over and over. Soon it's "Houston, we have a dog", and upon further investigation, "Houston, we have a boxer". Houston joins us for some beers at the bar, in between roaming and fighting other strays.
Priscilla and Daniella sit across the bar. I have no fear. I'm direct. I swing my hips. Tranquilly-tranquilly. Conversation is still tough, however. I no speaky the language.
The thunderstorm arrives suddenly and all hell breaks loose. In a tranquilly tranquilly way. The thatch roofs over the deck are not so waterproof, and running in between them is like running under a waterfall. The bar clears out, the guitarist stops in the middle of "Girl from Ipanema" [I'm not making that up, he was actually playing that] and the waiters are going home.
Aramis and Lucio are not concerned - they are staying. They've found a French-Canadian and a Dutchman (who, believe it or not, don't like Americans) to shoot the shit with. Priscilla and I take advantage of a rain break to escape down to the docks. Once there she has only one question for me: "Do you have a spouse?" (Perhaps the word means girlfriend in this context?). It's funny to me that now is the time to ask this question, but - hey, we're learning.
I do not. "e voce?" [Do you?]. No? O.K. Then it's make out time.
Brasilians take their making out seriously. No fooling around. No talking. No breathing for the next 45 minutes. Seriously - in my mind I was subconsciously humming a tune I couldn't place. Then the words came to me: "So kiss a little longer, make it last a little longer, make your breath long-lasting freshness with Big Red!" Damn those insidious advertisers!
At the end we attempted verbal communication again - mostly about whether I could return Friday. I tried to compliment her in Portuguese, but later figure out that I had said "You are beauty". Close enough. She tried for quite a bit to explain something that seemed important to her - but I was totally lost. She said she'd explain later.
We said our goodbyes, see you Friday if I can make it back, and Aramis and I walked home. I was curious why Aramis wasn't interested in Daniella anymore. He said Daniella had told him that she was a virgin, and that Priscilla was too. Man these Brasilians get to the point fast. It dawned on me that that was what Priscilla had been trying to explain to me.
We're slowly learning the customs of Brasil. Be direct. Swing your hips. Tranquilly tranquilly, kissy kissy. Establish marital status and any virginity up front. But most importantly, no fear de womans.





















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